Sewing Basics: Grain of Fabric

Getting started in sewing can feel a little overwhelming. I'm still learning how to read patterns and often prefer to come up with my own design. But whether I am following someone else's directions or my own, there are some things to know before cutting out a pattern.

You've probably heard the terms grain and selvage.  Fabric works best when it's cut correctly in relation to the grain, so this is how to find the grain. 

Selvage edge

First, fabrics usually come in 44/45, 54 or 60 in. widths. They are measured from selvage to selvage. Selvage is the finished, uncut edge of fabric. If you've purchased fabric with a print, you might notice a white strip along the edge with all the info and coordinating color circles along the edge. Or there might be tiny holes along a solid colored fabric. This is the selvage edge. 

The grain of fabric refers to the threads used to weave the fabric together. 

The straight, or lengthwise grain runs parallel to the selvage. Sometimes it is simply referred to as the grain. The threads running in this direction have been pulled tightly while the fabric was woven, so it doesn't have much stretch. 

The width is called the crossgrain. It runs perpendicular to the selvage and has more stretch. 

So if you purchase a yard of 45 in. wide fabric, you will have a cut piece that measures 1 yard (36 in.) in length and 45 in. in width. Okay, one more. 

Bias is cut at a 45 degree angle to the grain (straight) or crossgrain of fabric. There are no threads woven in this direction, so cutting along the bias will give you the most stretch.

  Hopefully this will get you started, either in reading patterns or creating your own!

Spring Cleaning, Naturally

 We planted some seeds several weeks back, and the parsley, peppers, and kale are sprouting. My echinacea doesn't look like it's going to grow. I think we took the starters out too soon. Oh well, we're learning. 

I made this Easter gift, which I call "The Beachcomber's Skirt," for my 7 year old sister-in-law who lives minutes from California beaches. The large pockets are designed to be filled with shells and sand dollars. 

And, the other spring related news is that I have been experimenting with my own homemade surface cleaning spray. I've tried just vinegar and water or vinegar, water, and essential oils. Around Christmas time I used peppermint oil, but for spring I love grapefruit. But the trick, at least for me, is to mix in a little rubbing alcohol so it doesn't have such a strong vinegar smell. And the combination of white distilled vinegar and the rubbing alcohol makes a great disinfectant. 

In a spray bottle I mix about:

1 c. white distilled vinegar

3 c. water

1/4 c. rubbing alcohol

about 20 drops Grapefruit essential oil

And that's it. We buy the baking soda and vinegar at Costco, so it's pretty inexpensive, especially considering what I would pay for store-bought natural cleaners. The oil I purchased at Chuck's Produce, but you can find them at Whole Foods as well. I've smelled lots of different oil scents, and my favorites beside grapefruit are the lemon and lavender. 

When I clean sinks, the shower and the toilets, I first sprinkle in baking soda and then spray the surfaces before wiping it clean. I use the spray almost daily on the counter tops in the bathroom and kitchen to keep things clean. And I know its safe around food and babies. They usually come along and spray everything for me. Just make sure if you let the kids help they don't take a full bottle and jar of baking soda or your supplies might disappear. I'm just saying! 

Happy Easter!

Freezer Paper Stencils and Other Gift Ideas

 Making gifts is one of my all-time favorite hobbies.  So when a birthday, Christmas, or wedding or baby shower comes around, I get excited coming up with ideas to suit the occasion. I usually take it as an excuse to learn a new sewing trick or go look at pretty fabric. That way, I can justify my crafting obsession and make a personalized gift.

Here's a few things to consider when coming up with a gift idea.
First, is there something you know the recipient needs but wouldn't necessarily spend money on themselves?

Second, what hobbies or interests does the receiver have? Gardeners might appreciate some chalkboard seed markers or vintage bird-feeder. Readers who drive a lot might like an audio book from their favorite author. If you know someone who loves throwing parties, handmade bunting or napkins are fun. You could compile energizing tunes for someone who loves to bust out the music while exercising.  If your recipient loves organic products, you could make soy or beeswax candles with lavender or grapefruit essential oils, or natural soaps.

Offering acts of service are awesome, especially when the budget is tight. I know as a busy momma of four, I deeply appreciate all the help in the yard, scrubbed floors, and home cooked meals we've received.

Another thing to keep in mind when coming up with gift ideas are some of your favorite things you enjoy wearing or using. For example, my sister gave me a cute headband with a print she saw that "looked like Jessica." Scarves are another favorite I've received.

One last thing. You know how when you're talking on the phone or hanging out together, people mention what they are trying to find or things they want. Keep tabs. Last June, when she came out to visit, my friend mentioned how much she liked my blue mason jars, but she wished they came in green  for a kitchen soap dispenser. When I was putting together her birthday present, I found one and snatched it.

 I just finished her gift and it's ready to send off in the mail today (if I can manage to get to the post office before closing time.) Em, if you see this post, stop reading this until you've opened your package. She's a talented writer and exceptional cook, so this is what I came up with:

Two kitchen towels, a soap dispenser and two knit potholders. The potholders were simple, just something I've never made. Working with two strands of yarn in different colors on size 7 needles made them thicker. 

I also picked up some of my favorite kitchen towels and stenciled this vintage typewriter onto the white one. It's easy to do, it just takes a little time cutting the image out of freezer paper with an exacto knife. 

Once you've cut the image out, iron the freezer paper to your fabric using a lower heat setting, with the shiny side of the paper down. It will adhere to the fabric. Lay your materials on a newspaper in case any paint bleeds through. Then, using your sponge brush, dab the fabric paint directly onto the stencil cutout.  Once it's dry, peel off the freezer paper, turn the fabric right side down, and iron the fabric, preferably on an old rag or something you don't care about, to set the paint. 

 Happy Birthday Em! 

"Spoiled" Vacations

 I don't remember staying in a hotel until I was maybe thirteen. Our vacations were always spent tent camping for two weeks every August. One week at the mountains for dad and a week at the beach for mom. And I loved every minute of it, except being cold in the night and not wanting to emerge from under the covers in the morning. I remember waking to the sound of crackling fire and a kerosene stove, which, I knew was warming water for hot chocolate. Dad was always up first getting things ready for us to warm ourselves by the fire before we went exploring.

I haven't given up tenting it, not yet. It gets harder with babies in a sleeping bag and trying not to wake the entire campsite, but it's so worth it. I want the kids to grow up with that experience. But that's not to say I don't appreciate what a nice indoor vacation has to offer, especially during the winter months when we could not otherwise venture out.

 We just spent several days at one of our favorite vacation spots in Washington. On the drive to Port Townsend, as we crossed a beautiful bridge over the Puget Sound, I saw my first whale. It was incredible. 

 This was the view from my window. I went to sleep with the stars reflecting on the still water at night. There was even a shooting star bidding me goodnight and the sound of water lapping on the shore just a few steps from my room greeting me in the morning. 

  This fellow was just outside our front door. I wish I had a better zoom on my camera!

We combed the beach for shells, crabs, and other treasures. We made friends with seagulls. We watched for seals.

And headed back to the room to read and knit. 

It was relaxing and beautiful and peaceful. Now, our next major family vacation will be spent in a tent. Maybe not as relaxing now that I am on the parent end of things, responsible for all the packing, but definitely worth it.

How to Make an Inverted Pleat

 My Addy loves pockets. So does Lucy, who has an eye for small details and usually fills her pockets with sparkles or other tiny objects she finds when she's out and about. I had them in mind when I was designing the pocket for this skirt. I wanted to mimic the look of the petals on tulips, so I went with an inverted pleat.

To make an inverted pleat, measure the width of the item, with the fabric right side up. Mark the center point. In this case, my unfinished pocket was 8 in. wide, so I marked it at 4 in.

On either side of that middle point, mark 3 separate points at equal distances from the middle mark. Since my middle mark was at the four, I marked my pocket at 1,2, and 3 on the left, and 5,6,and 7 on the right. In other words, each mark was one inch away from the other to make equal distances from the middle mark.

Next step. Find the middle of the three marks on the left or right of the middle mark. It doesn't matter which side. For my pocket, since I started on the right, I found the 6 in. mark. Pinch the fabric in your fingers and pull it to the center mark. 

Now repeat on the other side. You should have something resembling this. 

  There should be three layers of fabric on each side (bottom, middle, and top.) 

Pin it as needed and sew within the seam allowance. For the pocket, because I needed a finished top seam, I folded it twice toward the wrong side of the fabric (about 1/4 in. folds) and pressed before sewing.

And there you have it. An inverted pleat on a pocket ready to fill with sprigs of rosemary from the garden or seashells on the beach. 

How to Knit a Small Yarn-Over Buttonhole

 It's been awhile since I've knit a buttonhole, so I needed a refresher's course. There are lots of ways to make them, for all sorts of purposes, and if you are following a pattern, it will tell you which is needed. I'm making a teething bib for a shower, inspired by a beautiful set of bibs a friend sent me when Evie was born. I'm using a yarn-over button hole. It's super simple, so even if you are teaching yourself to knit (like myself), it's super easy. Once you reach the place in your row where you need a buttonhole, knit two together. If you are following a pattern, it's probably abbreviated "k2tog." 

Knit 2 stitches together

 

 To yarn over, all you have to do is move the string from the back of your work to the front. 

 Then, continue knitting to the end of the row. When you turn your work, knit all the stitches. 

 And that's it! Another job well done.

Snow!

 It began this morning at the breakfast table. If you looked closely you could see falling snowflakes every few seconds or so. By the time we started school, it was steadily coming down. When we woke up from our nap, there was at least an inch. And still it continues to fall. I love it. It's beautiful and peaceful. Thankfully, we are all safe and warm. I watch the snow piling on the trees and I remember college days in Ohio where snow was a permanent feature on the lawn during the winter. Here, it is a rare and well received occurrence.   

 I had to suit up and play in it.  Besides, I needed to thaw the hummingbird feeder and rescue the poor little fellas. St. Francis would be proud. 

And now, after thawing out my fingers, I'm ready to get back to work.

It's a gift I'm trying to finish by Valentine's Day.  I'll show you the new technique I'm going to learn once I complete the final stitches.